ROTT N CHATTER, August 1992, Volume 1 Number 1

 

                            THE DOCTOR'S BAG

                          GAEA MITCHEL, D.V.M.

 

   I was flatter to be asked to write an article on Veterinary Medicine and

hope I can contribute something of interest to everyone.  As writing isn't

my forte', I will need help from all of you.  If you have questions on items

of general interest, please ask them as they will give some direction to my

ramblings.  I can't, of course, give advice on specific cases, and sometimes

I will have to say I don't know the answer.  Be patient with me, let me know

what you want hear, and I will do my best.

 

   As uncomfortable subject, but important to us all as dog lovers, is the

pesky flea.  In most parts of the country we are at the peak of flea season,

and in some areas that season lasts the whole year.  Fleas are uniquely

endowed with properties that allow the species to survive conditions that

would spell doom for a weaker critter.  Each adult female following a blood

meal from one of our pets, lays hundreds of tiny eggs, which fall into

cracks in the floor or carpet backing, as well as areas in the yard where

our dogs might lie for any length of time.  Depending on the temperature and

humidity, these eggs can hatch in a matter of days or as long as two weeks.

The larval stage feeds on dander and flea dirt, the feces of the adult flea

which is simply digested blood of the host animal.  In this way the adult

female has provided everything her offspring needs to reach the pupal stage,

which has a hard case similar to a cocoon.  In this stage the flea can live

suspended animation, emerging as a young adult flea in as little as 7-10

days.  The pupal flea may wait for months, its hatching into adulthood

stimulated by more faverable temperatures or even the vibrations caused by

the arrival of lunch--you or your pets can sound the dinner bell for fleas

waiting in the pupal stage during your prolonged absence from the house.

It's the stuff of which nightmares are made.

 

   In order to regain some control of the flea situation, a three pronged

attack is essential.  There must be effective measures implemented in the

house, the yard and on the pet.  The yard can be treated with various

pesticides, the granular forms providing a time realease effect by leaching

more chemical into the soil each time it rains or the sprinklers are run.

Most of us can get good results by treating only those areas where the dogs

spend a great deal of time lying around.  Treating the house requires some

decisions as to what degree of toxic exposure we are willing to tolerate for

ourselves and for our pets.  I have two personal favorites for use indoors,

choices based on my allergies to pesticides.  There are several products

which combine Dursban, a heavy duty pesticide and Fenoxycarb, an insect

growth regulator.  While the former is guaranteed to give me a migraine, the

latter is so stable even in our Florida heat and humidity that application

once or twice a year in the house should give good protection year round.

The product tends to adhere to the fibers of the carpet, and even on

hardwood floors it will remain active for six months or more.  The growth

regulator affects the larvae, preventing them from shifting into the pupal

stage.  An even less toxic treatment for the house is the Fleabusters Pestx

product.  This a borate salt, which is no more toxic than table salt.  A

technician applies a fine, odorless powder to the carpets, working it deep

into the pile.  There it simply absorbs moisture, dehydrating the eggs and

larvae.  This product seems to be well tolerated even by individuals who are

allergic to most other flea products.

 

   This brings us to treatment of the dogs themselves.  Actually, if you

have good control in the environment this part should be easy.  I discourage

bathing too frequently, as dry skin can cause as much itching as a few fleas

for most dogs.  The chemical that is currently working best for dogs in my

area is permethrin, under the trade name Expar.  This is related to

pyrethrin, but is more stable on the animal.  Expar spray may used several

times a week if necessary, and there is a concentrated product called Defend

which lasts up to 4 weeks, though I find most dogs need a repeat application

every 3 weeks.  Defend is in an oil base, which help the permethrin cling to

the fats in the skin cell.  It not only kills fleas, but actually repels

many before they take the first bite on the dog.  This is a definate

advantage for those dogs with an allergy to fleas, where one bite sends them

into a frenzy of itching for days.  By combining all the aspects of flea

control, we can make life a little more pleasant for the four footed members

of our households.